How not to be a tourist
in Beijing

Smog, spit, sandstorms – how can a city be so dirty, yet so beautiful? Beijing is often a paradox. Horse-drawn carts share the roads with shining Bentleys, while silver skyscrapers stand beside one-story brick buildings with no plumbing. Steeped in old Chinese culture it may be – but no number of lao Beijingers quietly practicing taichi in the park can prevent an iPhone riot from breaking out in the city’s flagship Apple store. Beijing’s place in history doesn’t stop it from being a modern city, and it’s hard to pin down the quirky confidence that inspires. You can hear it in the cocky banter of the fruit sellers chatting on the corner; you can see it in the dignified manner your old neighbor walks his guinea pig every morning. Across this city, the locals will all let you know: Beijing has soul.